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American Academy of Dermatology Beauty Flash:
The Top 10 Cosmetic Do’s & Don’ts for Women with
Sensitive Skin
For most women, “putting on their face”
(a.k.a. applying cosmetics) is an important step in their morning
routine. However, for those with sensitive skin, this beauty transformation
can prove to be tricky as they do their best to avoid cosmetic irritation
and unsightly breakouts. While some of these women feel the need
to steer clear of make-up altogether, the solution to protecting
their sensitive side could lie in following some simple cosmetic
suggestions and reminders.
Speaking at the American Academy of Dermatology’s
2003 Annual meeting in San Francisco, dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos,
MD, Clinical Associate Professor of Dermatology, Wake Forest University
School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, NC, discussed dermatologists’
best cosmetic bets for keeping sensitive skin looking and feeling
its best.
“Understanding the make-up of cosmetics can
really pay off when it comes to protecting sensitive skin,”
said Dr. Draelos. “Women should know what type of ingredients
to look for when they’re purchasing products at beauty counters
or drugstores, as well as know hoe to properly use those cosmetics
once they bring them home.”
To determine which cosmetic products are best for
sensitive skin, Dr. Draelos offers the following recommendations:
1. Choose powder when possible
Powder cosmetics are not only great at removing shine, they have
very few preservatives and contain minimal ingredients that can
cause skin irritation. This means powder cosmetics are much less
likely to cause problems for women with sensitive skin than their
liquid counterparts.
2. Avoid waterproof cosmetics
While waterproof cosmetics, such as mascara, are great for tearful
moments, they require a solvent to remove them that also removes
sebum, the oily substance made by the sebaceous glands in skin.
Without this oily barrier, skin is exposed to potential irritants
that can cause a beauty breakout.
3. Throw out old cosmetics
“Women should keep
track of cosmetic expiration dates and throw out any items that
have passed their peak,” cautioned Dr. Draelos. “Old
make-up products may have spoiled or become contaminated, a particularly
important point when it comes to eye products.” A few standard
product life spans include: one year for foundation and lipstick;
three to four months for mascara; and two years for powder and shadows.
It is also important to wash make-up brushes and sponges regularly
since they can harbor dirt and germs that will aggravate sensitive
skin.
4. Use black-colored eyeliner and mascara
products
Women with sensitive skin will find that dramatic black is best
when it comes to eyeliner and mascara product colors. Dermatologists
feel that black is the least allergenic of all colorants.
5. Use pencil eyeliner and eyebrow fillers
According to Dr. Draelos, “Pencil eyeliner and eyebrow pencils
are wax-based and contain pigment and minimal preservatives. They
are much less likely to cause problems than liquid eyeliners that
contain latex and may cause problems in latex-sensitive individuals.”
The pencil forms of these cosmetics are also water removable, making
them easier on the surface of the skin.
6. Stick to earth-toned eye shadows
Lighter earth tones, such as tan, cream, white or beige, seem to
cause less upper-eyelid irritation in women with sensitive or itchy
eyes. “It is possible that the higher concentration of pigments
in darker colors like navy blue can cause an adverse reaction in
women with sensitive skin,” speculated Dr. Draelos.
7. Check sunscreen ingredients
Dermatologists recommend daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen
with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 15 or higher. For women with
sensitive skin, this sunscreen should only contain the physical
sunscreen ingredients zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Unlike chemical
sunscreen agents which absorb UV rays, it is impossible to be allergic
to physical sunscreen ingredients since they deflect the rays rather
than absorb them.
8. Use products that contain no more than
10 ingredients
Simply stated, the fewer the ingredients in a product, the less
likely it is that the product will cause a problem.
9. Avoid nail polishes
In addition to being easily smudged and chipped, wet nail polish
can be transferred to a person’s eyes and face before it dries.
This casual transfer can cause problems for women with sensitive
skin if they find the polish irritating or have an allergic reaction
to any of the components of the polish.
10. Use foundations based on silicone
While powder is preferred to protect sensitive skin, women choosing
a liquid foundation should look for one with a silicone base. Liquid
facial foundations based in silicone do not cause acne, and silicone
has a very low incidence of skin irritation.
According to Dr. Draelos, “Beauty products are
a great way to enhance a woman’s appearance, but if you have
sensitive skin and are finding that cosmetics do more harm than
good, your best course of action is to consult with a dermatologist
who can help determine the right beauty regimen for you.”
The American Academy of Dermatology, founded in 1938,
is the largest, most influential, and most representative of all
dermatologic associations. With a membership of over 14,000 dermatologists
worldwide, the Academy is committed to: advancing the diagnosis
and medical, surgical and cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair and
nails; advocating high standards in clinical practice, education,
and research in dermatology; supporting and enhancing patient care
for a lifetime of healthier. For more information, contact the AAD
at 1-888-462-DERM or www.aad.org.
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